Pelion

Mount Pelion, taking its name from the father of Achilles, Peleus, and dubbed as the mountain of Centaurs has always been a magical destination to explore winter and summertime alike. With around 70 villages and settlements spanning across the Pagasetic gulf near Volos, Pelion represents a unique getaway hidden in the dense forest at times levelling with the sea. In an effort to capture what’s not to miss in this blessed countryside, we visit the gems of East Pelion, facing the Aegean Sea, with Zagora, Kissos, Mouresi and Tsagkarada; plus the highlights of Milies, Neochori and Pinakates.

East Pelion

One of Pelion’s largest and most historic villages, Zagora is known for its centuries-old tradition of education and literature, with a remarkable 18th-century library housing rare books and manuscripts. Wander through its cobbled alleys, past grand stone mansions and leafy squares, before stopping for a coffee under the plane trees. The village is also famous for its crisp, red Zagorin apples, grown in the surrounding orchards that stretch down the mountainside towards the Aegean.

Perched on the lush eastern slopes of Mount Pelion, Kissos feels like a secret village wrapped in chestnut trees, with a grand 17th-century basilica at its square that quietly steals the show. Sitting underneath the huge walnut trees any time of the season can feel such a bliss. Just a few winding turns downhill, Mouresi opens up to wide views of the Aegean, its sleepy charm making it the perfect base before dropping further to the beaches of Agios Ioannis and Damouchari. Both villages keep things simple and authentic—exactly what Pelion does best.

Tsagakarada is probably one of the few settlements in Mount Pelion that is very popular with visitors from all over Europe but still unspoiled. It offers good accommodation options and serves as a good location for both the wintertime (as it’s not very far from Chania’s ski centre) and also the summertime (as it’s close to the beaches of Ntamouchari, Mylopotamos and Agios Giannis). Whatever the season, you will definitely like to spend some time in the main square of the village for a coffee or a visit to the old church dating from the 1800s.

The beach of Mylopotamos As you make your way towards the inner part of the peninsula, Mylopotamos is one stop you shouldn’t miss! Offering a unique seaside landscape, it is the perfect attraction during the summer. Make sure you get there early enough as the sun goes away after 3-4pm, at which time you’d want to transfer to the nearby taverna of Aggelika for some nice treats.

Milies and Neochori

Milies is always a good idea for a brief stop either during the morning hours or at night. There a couple of coffee shops and tavernas around worth exploring, such as the traditional tavernal Salkimi offering the best meat around, while a favorite coffee shop (and this is also the case for many visitors) is Anna Na Ena Milo.  Also, the main attraction here is the old train station located in the woods that was once home to the famous locomotive transferring passengers from Ano Lechonia to Milies. The service runs daily except during winter months. Now it mostly operates on weekends and public holidays.

The small settlement of Neochori is located up in the mountains and offers a unique taste of the region. With less than 50 permanent residents, Neochori offers very little amenities but gives visitors a real feel of the countryside life. Plan for a visit during the morning hours and try to get a bread from the local bakery… rumor has it the owner only sells bread to locals!

Pinakates

Just a short drive from Milies and Vizitsa, Pinakates is probably one of the most charming and least explored villages of Mount Pelion. Perched on the western slopes of the mountain, overlooking the Pagasetic Gulf, this small settlement is all about traditional stone-built mansions, narrow cobbled paths and a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere. The heart of the village is its picturesque square, home to a centuries-old plane tree, a beautiful marble fountain dating back to 1894 and a couple of spots to enjoy a coffee or a leisurely lunch.

Make sure you take some time to wander around the quiet alleyways before settling down for a glass of local tsipouro. Especially during autumn, when the surrounding trees turn golden, Pinakates is a real gem!

See

• Zagora – renown for its sharp red apples that everyone harvests come September time, this rather big village is one of the main hubs of East Pelion with its picturesque settlement of Agios Georgios featuring a traditional square full of cosy cafes.
• Kissos – with less than 200 permanent residents and placed off the main road, this cute little settlement is one of the hidden gems of East Pelion. The main square is a bliss to visit for a coffee next to the old church of Agia Marina.
• Tsagkarada – combining the best of the two worlds, the more developed and the less explored, Tsagkarada offers good accommodation options, a few cafes and a traditional town square waiting to be explored.
• Mylopotamos – offering one of the best beaches around, Mylopotamos is just 10 min away from Tsagkarada.
• Milies – one of the most central villages of the eastern Pelion, you will definitely want to make a stop there and get a taste of the village’s architecture
• Neochori – lost up in the mountain-side of eastern Pelion, Neochori is purely a gem! A small mini-market, a nice taverna and a bakery that operates purely for locals is what you’ll find in the main square of the village

Swim

• Plaka – simply the best in the area. Turquoise waters, tiny-pebbled beach with a long stretch and a small bar up the hill in case you need anything. Just 5min from Mouresi.
• Agioi Saranta – long beach stretch just below the homonymous village, also featuring a couple of beach bars. Great waters and a downtempo vibe.
• Mylopotamos – nice small beach that tends to get crowded during the summer months. Aggelika’s tavern right next to it.
• Ntamouchari – very nice pebble beach, surrounded by high cliffs. Also very busy during the summer months.
• Fakistra – remote pebble beach framed by rocky headlands and reached by a challenging trail from the cliff top.
• Papa Nero – long stretch with great waters, especially during the early morning hours when it’s super quiet.

Stay

• 12 months – more of a resort, 12 months is a great option for both families and couples, especially if you want to have a carefree stay equal of what you would find in a more developed area, also offering spa facilities to enjoy.
• The Lost Unicorn – lost in the heart of the dense forest around Tsagkarada, this establishment offers a unique character probably due to their foreign owners.
• Six Keys – if you’re there during the summer and are looking to enjoy the beach, this hotel is ideally placed on the beach of Amfissa offering a great location for short trips around the area of eastern Pelion.
• Adis Oneirou – perfect for the wintertime, this small boutique hotel is located in the heart of Mouresi comprising of 5 stone-built rooms.

Eat

• Gefsokratoras – located in Portaria, great countryside food, make sure you get the filo-pastry cheese-pie. Read our full review here.
• Itamos – the best restaurant around Tsagkarada by far. Very cosy during the cold months and with a gorgeous outdoor terrace when the weather permits. Read our full review here.
• Dipnosofistis – romantic atmosphere, good food and good selection of wine. If you’re there during summertime you’ll enjoy the cosiness of the garden; otherwise you’ll snuggle in the heigh-ceiling country house.
• Aggelika Fish Tavern – nice views from the hill overlooking Mylopotamos bay, best to make an après la Plage lunch and aim for fish and seafood
• Anna Na Ena Milo – great place for breakfast or just a taste of the traditional Greek coffee. Ask for their specialty, the apple pie!
• Ki Opou To Pei – nice and relaxing vibe underneath the dense forrest in Neochori.
• Skalimi – traditional family taverna in Milies, offering among the best ribs and beef patties you’ve ever tried. You should also try their homemade pies and their oven baked meat with tomato sauce and eggplant.

 

• Sholarhio – legendary bar handcrafted by Vasilis Katsidis, famous for the unique music that is often played at nights. Perfect spot for a night out.
• Scala Bar – great cocktails and music, served both by owner Komninos who inherited this lovely house from his grandpa. This is definitely one not to miss!