I still remember my first visit to Allios, not long after it opened on Kerkyras Street in Kypseli. I had heard good things, arrived with expectations, and left feeling somewhat unconvinced. Nothing particularly wrong, just not enough to make me eager to return. Funny how things change. Three or four visits later, Allios has become one of those places I keep going back to, with every meal somehow managing to top the previous one.
Our latest visit was on a Saturday lunchtime, with the neighbourhood moving at its usual unhurried pace. Kerkyras Street has that lovely mix of urban Athens and unexpected greenery, and Allios fits right in. We settled around one of the pale green tables, ordered a few things to share and gradually let lunch take over the afternoon.
The sourdough bread arrived early, accompanied by flavoured butter that made it almost impossible to stop tearing off another piece. A promising start, especially with the first meze beginning to fill the table.
There were house pickles, colourful, sharp and just what you want to nibble on between bites. Then came the tomato salad, easily one of the best reasons to visit. Beautiful, ripe tomatoes, swimming in their own juices with olive oil, herbs and capers. The sort of dish that reminds you how little needs to be done when the ingredients are this good. Naturally, more bread was required.
The highlight, though, was the sea bass carpaccio with fig and tsitsiravla, those delicately pickled wild pistachio shoots, all generously drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. The combination was unexpected but worked wonderfully, with the fig bringing a gentle sweetness and the pickled greens cutting through the richness of the oil. It’s the dish I’d return for without hesitation.
As lunch continued, we moved on to the grilled aubergine in tomato juice, soft and deeply savoury, followed by more generous plates from the kitchen. The pasta of the day, wide ribbons dressed with grated cheese and fresh herbs, was another welcome addition, comforting without feeling heavy.
By the time the slow-cooked lamb arrived, with carrots, potatoes and its cooking juices, we were already well into the meal. It was a fitting final dish, hearty and uncomplicated, bringing the lunch to a satisfying close.
What has stayed with me most about Allios is not just a particular plate, although that carpaccio certainly deserves a mention. It’s the steady improvement over repeated visits, the confidence in seasonal produce and the feeling that the kitchen knows when to leave good ingredients alone. Add friendly, relaxed service and prices that remain remarkably fair, and the appeal becomes even clearer.
I wasn’t particularly taken with Allios the first time around. These days, I’m already thinking about the next Saturday lunch.
