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The Weekly Getaway: a cosy neighbourhood around the turquoise waters of Kimolos

Anastasia Hassiotis | August 26, 2020
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Looking back to summer vacation, what everyone is after is a relaxing hideaway, a few new places to explore and just good food. Kimolos has it all (if not more) and is away from the busy “must-see” destinations around the Cyclades, making it the perfect choice to unwind.

Located just 20mins away from Milos, Kimolos is a small island in the southeastern part of the Cycladic complex with gorgeous uninhabited Polyaigos minutes away. Its distinct silver-colored rocky land made it a major trade hub in the past with lots of different and strange volcanic formations – most notably Skiadi, a huge mushroom-shaped rock sitting atop a hill overlooking Milos’ Pollonia seaside village.

The heart of the island, its people

As you first settle in, you take note of the island’s residents. Although it’s a brisk ascend from the port to the main settlement, Chorio, you will definitely encounter many of them. Quite active and lively, despite the silver age of most, Kimolians are always nice to talk to. Whether it’s early in the morning when they head to one of the two local bakeries of Chorio, or whether they sip their Greek morning coffee at the main attraction of the island, Bohoris, their encounter is always a treat. Maybe that’s why you feel different here in this small place – because you’re so welcome!

Beba Sardi, one of the most active Kimolians, has been one of the main brand ambassadors through her cooking (more on that, see our Sardis restaurant review here) but also through the self-organised Kimolistes activist group. Together with a bunch of devoted Kimolian residents they promote the island through inventive happenings such as pop-up open-air cinema installations in the medieval castle of Kimolos or a beach in Polyaigos! Ever since 2017 they’ve also launched an open-air lending book club that you can find dispersed in the island, whether it’s Prassa beach, Chorio or the island’s port Psathi.

Kimolos, Greece - Travel Food People
The infamous ladenia at To Kyma restaurant
Chorio’s main meeting point, H Kali Kardia – Bohoris
Beba Sardi with a homemade serving of kakavia fish soup

Great food and local treats

Kimolos is known for its ladenia, an oven baked pizza-like bread with tomatos and onions, that is prepared by both bakeries as well as most restaurants on the island. The best one is at To Kyma restaurant where you can catch a fresh batch after 11am. Regardless of where you’ll eat, Kimolos is full of nice surprises. Whether it’s traditional Greek food you’re after (think Sardis), or something more sophisticated (think To Kyma and Meltemi) Kimolos has it all despite its small size.

On one day we wake up with clouded skies and head to the main square for some nice breakfast yummies at Stou Fragouli which is usually a bit sunny during the first morning hours. Despite the slow service, the homebaked bread they eventually serve us is such a treat. Adding locally-made jams and some nice butter on top is such a delicious combo! Alternatively, we opt for the super simple yet super delicious eggs with tomato paste and local prosciutto at Lostromos in Psathi.

On a different day we head to Psathi at Raventi for a post-lunch dessert. These guys have been focusing on perfecting the art of small pastries, as well as ice cream – try their triple chocolate mousse!

Kimolos, Greece - Travel Food People
To Kyma restaurant at the island’s port Psathi
Skiadi rock

The beach(es)

As I said, Kimolos is quite tiny so there is only one organised beach on the island. As you make your approach towards Prassa beach, you can gaze at the clear turquoise waters from afar – diving in them is such a joy! When you get early enough before noon, you can find ample space and free umbrellas so that you can enjoy the beach with some privacy. In all fairness, whether it is busy or not is besides the point – the waters are amazing and you can easily spend days here! The beach bar is well equipped with snacks and some nice options for wine or drinks, and you can easily reserve sunbeds on the day before by calling Elvis.

Another one to check out if you’re visiting with a 4×4 car is Souphi beach. Further up north and facing Sifnos, this quiet and very remote beach is also amazing. The dirt road at some point takes a quite steep descend and there is a sign warning travelers that it is not maintained by the local authorities – don’t fret, you can also walk down although it may take you 30mins or more.

The rest beaches, Bonatsa and Kalamitsi, are not that well-protected from the wind so chances are you won’t have a good time. If you’re looking for a quick dive then you can also try Klima or Karras where the local fishermen hide their boats at.

If you’re really serious about your swims, then rent a boat from neighboring island Milos (more on Polaris rent a boat) and tour around Polyaigos – the blue and white of the wild coves and the beautiful rock formations around is second to none!

Prassa beach aerial view
The view as you drive back from Skiadi around sunset time
Drinks at Agora

See

  • Chorio – a small labyrinth located atop the hill where you can catch most of the action on this beautiful island. Great to tour around the different houses, churches and its main square
  • Skiadi – famous rock at the top of a hill overlooking Pollonia in Milos. Accessed by a dirt road, 15mins away from Chorio, and a 25-min trek on the mountain trail. Makes for a perfect sunset!
  • Polyaigos – nearby uninhabited island with lots of small coves and beautiful turquoise waters. You can rent a boat (with a license) or a rib to tour around for a full day – beautiful!

Stay

  • Psathaki – very good newly launched apartments, located minutes from the port
  • Kimolis – decent small hotel, located opposite the street from Psathaki
  • Airbnb – traditional yet stylish, and fully-refurbished, apartments at the best location within Chorio. You can choose from four options on this listing on Airbnb Ammoni

Swim

  • Prassa (Agios Georgios) – the best beach around with turquoise waters and a decent beach bar. Make sure you reserve sunbeds (if you want) ahead of time and/or arrive before noon to enjoy the beautiful beach before it gets crowded
  • Souphi – a long and bumpy road to reach this deserted cove in the north side of the island. A few hundred meters before you reach the destination the decline becomes very steep so the road is only accessible on a 4×4 car
  • Psathi – the beach at the island’s port, but with great crystal clear waters if you’re up for a quick dip
Baking fresh bread at The Traditional bakery in Chorio
Local treats at Meltemi restaurant

Eat/Drink

  • To Kyma – one of the two top restaurants on the island, located at the port making for a great post-beach late lunch. Seafood and seafood pasta/orzo are their specialty but their ladenia is the best around. Reservation is a must, read our full review here
  • Sardis – the other of the two top restaurants on the island, with the legendary Beba Sardi behind the kitchen. Delicious home-cooked dishes and fresh grilled fish. Must try their goat casserole! Also perfect for post-beach lunch. Read our full review here
  • Taverna Kalamitsi – nice taverna by the beach for a quick salad or tsipouro
  • H Kali Kardia – one of the main attraction of the island, staying open all year round, offering home-cooked dishes
  • O Lostromos – quick breakfast stop by the port, decent fried eggs
  • To Raventi – known for their home-cooked deserts and pastries that they bake all day long. They also serve nice Greek as well as espresso coffee you can follow up your lunch with at To Kyma
  • Stevanto Ice Cream – nice ice cream stop at Chorio. They prepare daily special flavours but also some of their own deserts

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