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Restaurant Reviews

Zurich: a truly gastronomic experience at Maison Manesse

Dimitris Kossyfas | 16 December 2017
Maison Manesse
4.5
CasualdkEurope
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A paradise for wine lovers, a playground for connoisseurs and a Michelin star are what you’re gonna find at Maison Manesse at the very least! One of Zurich’s finest yet relaxed restaurants, Maison Manesse will keep on growing on you as you leave and ponder over the feast you’ve experienced.

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Little do I know when I land in Zurich and think of passing by for a quick impromptu dinner. Maison Manesse is something you’ll definitely like to have planned ahead, as its fame proceeds this fine dining space that launched in 2014. Luckily I’m on my own and the head waiter is kind enough to let me get away with it, whilst showing me to one of the cute tables at the back.

An all-white, exposed brick space full of candles and a few hip details make for a nice setting as I’m settling in and ready to take a look at the menu. Quickly comes the waiter serving me a tiny flowerbud on top of a white porcelain server dish; “something to neutralize your taste buds before we begin” – wow! Chef Fabian Spiquel offers Fun Fine Dining at the highest level, which Jean Denis Roger skillfully serves with his distinctive charm and affable style!

Had I visited with company, I would have totally opted for the surprise menu, a selection of 6 courses and a real culinary experience; nonetheless a la carte is the choice and I’m not at all let down. But, buefore all, the choice the wine. I leave it up to the head waiter as he comes up with a bold Crianza red from Ribera del Duero – amazing!

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I’m only getting three dishes but that’s more than enough that I will be visiting again very very soon. Some countryside bread served up with extra virgin olive oil and rock salt to begin with. A DIY beef filet tartar, that actually arrives with not only a list of ingredients but also a handy mix-it-yourself guide (see photo below) – fun to play with and very very delicious!

Next, a 63° cooked egg (for about an hour may I add!) with savoy cabbage and local truffles (oh, yes, that’s on the cover photo, as well as below), also accompanied by complimentary sake from Kyoto – just about the best dish I’ve had for the last year or so (last I remember was the 4 Charles Prime Rib burger in NYC).

And, last but not least, a 48-hour duck leg with beetroot sauce, wild quince puree, semoline ‘knödel’ and shizo salad – nicely cooked and quite tasty if you’re the duck type.

All, pretty f**ing delicious. Hats off Maison Manesse team!

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