The Weekly Getaway: the wild winds of Serifos
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The Weekly Getaway: the wild winds of Serifos

Dimitris Kossyfas | 20 July 2016
Best time to go:
Ideal trip duration:
4 nights
Last updated:
14 July 2022

I remember the morning when I first arrived in Serifos, the wind hauling through the limpid narrow streets of Chora and the starking desert-like Cycladic backdrop around. A lot to suck in, especially when you’re in the search of a much-needed breakfast and coffee, and you find yourself at Stratos in the main square that serves as the meeting point for all the locals. It’s rare that you’ll find such a unique hideaway very close to a country’s capital but Serifos, sitting beautifully atop a mountain, is just that. Located 2.5 hours away from Athens, Greece, and being far from touristy Serifos features small white houses with colourful windows and a handful of unspoiled beaches. Scroll down to get a taste!


Serifos Chora sitting atop a hill, 10mins away from the harbour One of the first beaches I discovered there was Kalo Ambeli. Beautiful turquoise waters and a relatively long sandy stretch await those that will brave an adventurous trek down the hill for at least 15 minutes. Going downhill under the scorching August sun, my friends and I had to even trespass a beautiful yet deserted church complex in order to get down there. Water and other supplies, not to mention beach equipment such as frisbees and beach rackets can go along way when you find yourself in this deserted strip of sand. Lia beach, on the eastern part of the island, can be equally tranquil and adventurous although the walk is a lot less steep and shorter. Beware you may find a few nudists down there. If you’re up for a more relaxed day, you can opt for Vagia beach which features a few thatched umbrellas and a small bar for some water and cocktails to quench your summer thirst.


Kalo Ambeli beach


Old mine platform in Megalo Livadi

Food is not Serifos’ strong point. Nonetheless it is ours. So if you want to avoid unpleasant experiences, carry on reading. Stou Stratou is by far the pace where everything begins and concludes. What I always like to do is to wake up relatively early and head up to Chora for a generous breakfast before hitting the beach. The sun doesn’t hit the square until mid-day, and if by any chance it does you can always retreat to the small patio labelled with a sign “a la place”. Just before sunset, the crowds start to flock in but it’s probably the best time to catch a fresh slice of Stratos’ signature chocolate cake (before it’s gone!). And a walk up Kastro (‘castle’ in Greek) for amazing views of the Aegean sea (and Sifnos) will definitely work your appetite.


Serifos signature square atop a hill, with “Stou Stratou” traditional café as the main attraction… all day long.


The old HQ of Serifos’ mining company, soon to house the mining museum The soil of Serifos, rich in ore deposits, became a source of wealth for the Grumman family that began excavations back in 1885 in the area of Megalo Livadi. Although there are currently only a few remains from that era of the island, a trek towards that side of the island will time travel you back to Serifos’ past. A stop by the beach Megalo Livadi and the Kyklopas tavern can reward you with some local delicacies (see below).


According to mythology, the island of Serifos, “the iron island” as they used to call it, was inhabited by the powered giants called Cyclops


On top of Kastro, the church of Agios Constantinos



  • Kastro – old fortress up in Chora; great views to the port and further south to the rest of the Cyclades islands if the sky is clear.
  • Panagia Skopiani – beautiful church in the northern part of the island with great views to the sea.


  • Chill & Co Hotel – newest addition on the accommodation front; lovely boutique rooms in Livadi, also featuring a great all-day café.
  • Pende Suites – minimalistic, cosy rooms in Livadi. Book with us here.
  • Serifos White & Olive – traditional yet also kind of modern rooms in Chora; also great views.
  • Cocomat Serifos – located on the one edge of Vagia beach, this eco-friendly hotel is a unique retreat if you want to relax. The trip to Chora is not ideal (especially at night) but the view to the sea will make up for that. Only downer is that you will probably need to stay at least 5 days to get rates here.
  • Rizes hotel – a classic choice for those wanting to have the luxury of a hotel and a pool.


  • Vagia – great location, some umbrellas and a nice small bar.
  • Kalo Ambeli – sandy beach, but requires a 15-min trek down the hill and through a small church; make sure you get supplies with you. The place is empty before 9am which make it ideal!
  • Lia – next to Agios Sostis, but much nicer. Follow the path to the right of the main road and 8-min later you’ll probably find your way to the beach (need to go around a small house).
  • Ganema – half of the beach covered in small pebbles and half in sand, this long stretch is nice if everything else is crowded. There’s also a beach bar for those seeking sunbeds and umbrellas.
  • Sykamia – located in the northern part of the island and some good 20min from Chora; nice sunset views to the Aegean sea but nothing special. Makes perfect combo with a lunch at Panagia pantry shop.
Travel Food People - Serifos, Greece
Travel Food People - Serifos, Greece
Travel Food People - Serifos, Greece
Travel Food People - Serifos, Greece


  • Stou Stratou – great laid-back ambience, nice treats and traditional setting make this spot the primary reason to come back to Serifos. Visit at any time of the day and you’ll be rewarded. Read our full review here.
  • Yacht Club – another iconic café of the island, tucked away in a nice corner of the main bay. Serves great breakfast in the morning, some nice cocktails at night but above all great music until the early hours. Read our full review here.
  • Chill & Co – very tasty breakfast dishes, both for egg lovers as well as for the sweet-tooth. Read our full review here.
  • Aloni – nice local specialties, especially the lemon-infused veal. Perfect for a quiet night out with a view to the port. Great to come here just before sundusk.
  • Panagia pantry shop – a dive in time, this pantry shop cum taverna is an amazing place to witness authentic Serifos. Ask Mrs Argyro for the daily special. Read our full review here.
  • Louis – traditional taverna in the main piazza of Chora with probably the best food on the island. Make sure you try the slow-cooked chickpeas and the kebab – both a delight! Read our full review here.
  • O Kyklopas – visit after the beach, get a table under the trees by the sea and make sure you order some zucchini fried puffs! Service is really basic (especially when it’s busy) but the scenery is nice.
  • Gaidaros – when you’re done with Stratos, head down back to Gaidaros (‘donkey’ in Greek) for drinks and cocktails. The roof terrace is also very nice (if it’s not too windy).
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