I remember the morning when I first arrived in Serifos, the wind hauling through the limpid narrow streets of Chora and the starking desert-like Cycladic backdrop around. A lot to suck in, especially when you’re in the search of a much-needed breakfast and coffee, and you find yourself at Stratos in the main square that serves as the meeting point for all the locals.
It’s rare that you’ll find such a unique hideaway very close to a country’s capital but Serifos, sitting beautifully atop a mountain, is just that.
Located 2.5 hours away from Athens, Greece, and being far from touristy Serifos features small white houses with colourful windows and a handful of unspoiled beaches. Scroll down to get a taste!
Serifos Chora sitting atop a hill, 10mins away from the harbour
One of the first beaches I discovered there was Kalo Ambeli. Beautiful turquoise waters and a relatively long sandy stretch await those that will brave an adventurous trek down the hill for at least 15 minutes. Going downhill under the scorching August sun, my friends and I had to even trespass a beautiful yet deserted church complex in order to get down there. Water and other supplies, not to mention beach equipment such as frisbees and beach rackets can go along way when you find yourself in this deserted strip of sand.
Lia beach, on the eastern part of the island, can be equally tranquil and adventurous although the walk is a lot less steep and shorter. Beware you may find a few nudists down there.
If you’re up for a more relaxed day, you can opt for Vagia beach which other than being home to the eco-friendly CocoMat hotel it also features a few thatched umbrellas and a small bar for some water and cocktails to quench your summer thirst.
Kalo Ambeli beach
Vagia beach
Old mine platform in Megalo Livadi
Food is not Serifos’ strong point. Nonetheless it is ours. So if you want to avoid unpleasant experiences, carry on reading.
Stou Stratou is by far the pace where everything begins and concludes. What I always like to do is to wake up relatively early and head up to Chora for a generous breakfast before hitting the beach. The sun doesn’t hit the square until mid-day, and if by any chance it does you can always retreat to the small patio labelled with a sign “a la place”.
Just before sunset, the crowds start to flock in but it’s probably the best time to catch a fresh slice of Stratos’ signature chocolate cake (before it’s gone!). And a walk up Kastro (castle in Greek) for amazing views of the Aegean sea will definitely work your appetite.
Serifos signature square atop a hill, with “Stou Stratou” traditional café as the main attraction… old day long
The old HQ of Serifos’ mining company, soon to house the mining museum
The soil of Serifos, rich in ore deposits, became a source of wealth for the Grumman family that began excavations back in 1885 in the area of Megalo Livadi. Although there are currently only a few remains from that era of the island, a trek towards that side of the island will time travel you back to Serifos’ past. A stop by the beach Megalo Livadi and the Kyklopas tavern can reward you with some local delicacies (see below).
According to mythology, the island of Serifos, “the iron island” as they used to call it, was inhabited by the powered giants called Cyclops
On top of Kastro, the church of Agios Constantinos
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Last updated: 01/08/2017