When I landed on a cloudy, fall day in Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku, I wasn’t sure what to expect. It was described by Lonely Planet as a cross between Paris and Dubai, which is right up my alley. I braced myself though, as a city’s charm can sometimes be different online versus in person.
My first day in the city did not disappoint. There were gardens mixed with beautiful architecture, rustic city relics, and shiny high rises. A walkable city with a sense of tranquility emanating from the friendly locals. Even the Caspian Sea is a calming force as you walk the city’s waterfront.
It didn’t take long for me to see that the cityscape is a mix of modern and classic. There are wide boulevards, well maintained green spaces, and newly tiled promenades. But the history of ancient civilizations whispers through the walled Icheri Sheher, otherwise known as the old city. Vendors and tasty restaurants surviving hearty kebabs are located throughout. Walking through its steep streets and alleyways while going from Shirvanshak’s palace to the Maiden’s Tower let you appreciate Baku’s history.
Vendors and tasty restaurants are located throughout. It was a picturesque experience walking through its steep streets and alleyways while going from Shirvanshah’s palace to the Maiden’s Tower.
The Maiden Tower is one of the city’s oldest structures and a symbol of its strength and resilience. Climbing to the top not only gives you a panoramic view of the city and sea, but an interesting multi-media tour of the medieval civilization that once use the tower for protection and safety.
Azerbaijan gained its independence in 1991 after seventy years of Soviet rule. Since then it has made strides in becoming an international city, though there are signs of previous ruling empires especially in the cuisine.
Our best meals were at cozy restaurants serving kebabs and dumplings revealing a mix of the Russian and Persian influences on the city. We frequented the cozy MariVanna where our waiter Nouman highlighted the best of the Russian, Georgian and Azeri cuisine at each visit. Some restaurants like Firuze and Dolma had their own charm as they were underneath the city’s streets and had local offerings.
Though Baku may be described as a mix of Paris and Dubai, it has a sense of charm and character that it can proudly call its own.