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New York: “Earth, Wheat, Fire” at Bushwick’s Faro

Faustine Poidevin | June 13, 2017
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Located near the Jefferson stop on the L train, Faro is the first Bushwick restaurant ever to get a Michelin star. In this seasonal restaurant the menus change often but the board of dishes always includes house-made pastas, wood-fired porgy, steak, and porridge.

The chef Kevin Adey and his wife transformed this former warehouse space that once used to store sculptures for MoMa into a 50-seat dining room known as Bushwick’s new star. There’s a long bar in front at which you can hang or drink a Bloody Mary made with sun-dried tomatoes or a local beer while waiting for your table.

Faro’s Italian-leading menu is sourcing local, seasonal and sustainable produce. The chef purchases pasture raised meat and fish from environmentally conscious farmers and fishermen. He then honours the animals he serves by using every bit of them in his cooking. Kevin Adey even mills the organic flour and grain for his homemade bread and pastas! And indeed, pastas are “the heart and soul” of Faro. The ever-changing menu includes Gnocchi alla Romana (large flour dumplings with red wine braised beef), Ricotta Cavatelli with wild mushrooms; Squid ink calamarati, and Lobster raviolis…

Those handmade, fresh, pastas prove how Italian food is having a golden moment in Brooklyn right now. According to Adey, “Nothing tastes as good as fresh pasta,” especially when the price is right: No item on the menu will set you back more than $20.

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