The Weekly Getaway: striking sun on the lunar backdrop of Milos
Life in Milos, Greece, can be busy. Too many beaches, too little time. So if I were you, I would budget at least a week to slowly explore the best waters and most idyllic coastlines around this beautiful and unique island of the Aegean sea.
Rule number 1: avoid the touristy boat tour around Kleftiko that can take up too much of your precious time or your carefree self. Your fellow travellers and avid photographers may have to step on anything in their way, human or not, in their quest of the perfect click. Instead, hire a private boat or opt for the half-day tour from Kipos (book at Adamas) to Kleftiko (only 4 hours) if you want to stay on budget.
Beaches are nice but you can't go on an empty stomach... make sure you don't miss a very remote, family run and traditional joint, Empourio. At Empourio, the Greek salad tastes better with the local soft cheese, fried tomato dumplings are crispy golden and their handmade local desert is a unique treat - all pictured below.
Located on the main road between Adamas (the main port) and Chora, Mouratos is a family-run bakery since 1936. In 1985 they established their operations in Milos and ever since they cater sweet and savoury basked products to the local community on a daily basis. My favourite one: pittarakia, a half-moon shaped peppery cheese pie sprinkled with a bit of spearmint and onion.
As for my last food tip, as much as this restaurant can be considered a bit too commercial, O Hamos really owns up to the expectations. And if my word is not enough, try visualising it by scrolling down a bit.
- Plaka - picturesque village where you can only walk on foot, Plaka also serves as the island's capital and is located on top of a hill with great views
- Pollonia - apart form the port, this is where some of the night action takes place. Especially if you're up for fine dining in local tavernas by the sea
- Melian Boutique Hotel - posh hotel located 10-12 km from the airport and port of the island of Adamas in the village of Pollonia; also features a spa and great views to the south of the Aegean Sea
- Salt Suites - very elegant and exclusive suites in the village of Pollonia; amazing sunset views from its cosy outdoor lounge space that you can also visit for a drink
- Artemis Deluxe Rooms - located in Paleochora and resembling more of a resort-type hotel, Artemis is a very good budget choice with access to a lovely beaches (Paleochori) in walking distance
- Olea Bay Hotel - great newly built hotel a few kilometers outside the port, featuring minimally designed rooms and great service. Also offering nice breakfast
- Milos Breeze Boutique Hotel - nicely made boutique hotel up the hill in the entrance of Pollonia village, with breathtaking views to Kimolos and the Aegean Sea
- Sarakiniko - labelled as the moon beach, more of an attraction than a beach to spend a full day at
- Plathiena - nice small organised beach but that's about it
- Firiplaka - sand, great rock formations and low height thatched umbrellas. Also, features a small beach bar to quench your thirst
- Tsigrado - combine this with Firiplaka, if you're up for climbing down to the beach on a rope. Make sure you bring some water and food
- Paliochori - volcanic dark sand and rock formations. You may get the occasional sniff from sulfur but waters are super clean. Nice small beach bar and umbrellas also available
- Triades - three bays next to each other, very secluded and scenic. Bring water and supplies
- Thiafes - small beach below an abandoned sulphur mine. Although it's close to the port the road and trek there can be tricky
- Astakas - arguably the best food in Milos, set in the scenic location of Klima which makes for a perfect sunset! Definitely go for their signature lobster pasta dish. Read our full review here
- Medousa - a must seafood taverna with a great view to the north, located in Mandrakia near Sarakiniko. Read our full review here
- O Hamos - one of the most well known joints on the island, close to the port, serving comfort food throughout most of the day and night. Whatever you order, you don't want to miss out on the rooster. Read our full review here
- Empourio - low key traditional taverna in a remote location but definitely worth the trek (see pictures above). Perfect to combine with a visit to Triades beach. Read our full review here
- Fatses - traditional meze place up in Plaka that also features some live mellow Greek music. Great feeling under the big tree - full review here
- To Armenaki - insane lobster or crayfish pasta in Pollonia, that could make for a great sunset dinner. Make sure you make a reservation for a waterfront table!
- Gialos - ditto, although if you only have one night in Pollonia, To Armenaki is a tad better
- Ergina - traditional Greek dishes and great sunset views form this balcony. Try Milos' traditional cheese puffs, pitarakia, and the delicious local treat skordolazana (only if you like garlic a lot!)
- Mouratos bakery - great stop, located just outside of Triovassalos, for packing some goodies for the beach. Full review here