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Athens: the legendary taverna of Margaro in a quiet corner of Piraeus
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Restaurant Reviews

Athens: the legendary taverna of Margaro in a quiet corner of Piraeus

Dimitris Kossyfas | 24 October 2021
Margaro
4.3
Food:
Service:
Ambience:
Value:
Neighbourhood:
Piraeus
Specialises in:
Shrimps
Cuisine:
Greek
Price:
$$
Best time to visit:
Lunch

You can’t go wrong with simplicity. This legendary traditional taverna in Piraeus, once again puts to show how specialisation in gastronomy will always win. And here they only specialise on shrimps, fish and Greek salad!

Visiting on a balmy afternoon, we discover this quiet corner in Piraeus that sits next to the Hellenic Naval Academy. The place is immaculate and buzzing. Freshly painted stucco walls on this traditional house built in the 40s stand out, the tables are full of Athenians (and mostly locals from Piraeus) enjoying the sun and the simplicity that lies with such an original place.

The story has it that Margaro and Giannis, originally from Ano Mera in Mykonos, came to Athens when they started their family back in 1944. Giannis was a coal worker at the port and Margaro was tending fried fish and all sorts of delicacies to local workers in a small basement around the area of Hadjikyriakio. The menu back then was also simple and that’s what made it a success.

Travel Food People - Margaro, Athens
Travel Food People - Margaro, Athens
Travel Food People - Margaro, Athens
Travel Food People - Margaro, Athens

The years passed by and so did Margaro in 1974, when her son Lazaros took over with his wife Hariklia. Lazaros kept the same menu until 1978 and due to the constant increase in customers they decided to only serve fish, Greek salad and homemade retsina from their vines in Markopoulo. Today along with Lazaros his children and grandchildren are following the tradition of the restaurant.

When we go around the establishment we notice Kostas manning the frying pans in what looks almost like an open plan kitchen. Servers come and go swiftly in this buzzing atmosphere created in a warm, homey style. The shrimps and the fish are fried to perfection, sprinkled with rock salt and served hot! Everyone is licking their fingers left and right and we can’t wait to dig in!

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